Sometimes the world tries to knock it out of you, but I believe in music the way that some people believe in fairy tales .------ 《August Rush》
Friday, May 27, 2011
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
First Group Ride!
I looked up the schedule for the women's training rides this summer, and the first one of the season is this Tuesday - tomorrow! Before I lose my nerve, I think I need to just force myself to show up. Will make my best effort - now off to shop for a certain required accessory!
Bikes, Cameras, (in)Action
As some of you've noticed that my posts have been impersonal lately, I will come clean: My talent for injury has triumphed once again. A few days after arriving in Vienna, I had a silly experience that resulted in a dislocated shoulderblade and injured ribs. The thing about injuries like this, is that nothing can be done about them; you just keep living your life until everything heals - while taking painkillers and anti-inflamatories. For the first week after it happened, I could not move my right arm above the elbow and I couldn't lean forward with the right side of my body. Now I can, but the pain is still there - especially after long days at work. Hopefully by next week I will be all mended and bike-ready.
To ease this pathetic state, I gifted myself a "new" camera (a Rolleicord Ia circa 1941, if that means anything to you). That's the one hanging around my neck with the twin lenses. The one in my hands is a Lumix 3 digital point-and-shoot. And yes, those are bicycles behind me. Ironic, isn't it? I have two bicycles at my disposal... once I have healed enough to ride them, which hopefully will be soon.
[image from Cycling is Good for You]
In other news, I will be getting together with Anna from Cycling Is Good for You once again tomorrow, to have a look at her new Retrovelo Paula - stay tuned!
In other news, I will be getting together with Anna from Cycling Is Good for You once again tomorrow, to have a look at her new Retrovelo Paula - stay tuned!
Althea
Monday, May 23, 2011
Still climbable...
Well Laura and I tried to climb yesterday, but unfortunately the rain and warm weather took its toll on the area. We got skunked on our attempt. Dr. Bob and Chip were also optimistic. My phone rang as we rolled into the lot. It was Bob wishing happy new years and telling me he and Chip thought they'd at least drive out to try to climb. Well Laura and I went to take a look here's what we found...
Well Dr. Bob and Chip were more optimistic than us. We left and they took a walk down to check things out up close. As per their description "Deep muck led to the ice". They made the (wise) decision not to climb. That was yesterday...Today... 1/3/
Laura and I decided to take advantage of what the warm weather had done (opened up some winter roads). We decided to drive to Krahlick to see how the ice weathered through the storm. I had hiked in several weeks ago to check it out. Its not the same angle, but it gives you an idea. It's still reasonably good.
Laura had never been to this location, so it was nice to get her there. Its not that big, roughly 40' tall. Several routes put up by Ray Burnsworth back in the late '80's currently exist. The largest center piece is Wilderness Bound WI4 and the shorter tiered section to the right is Wilderness Found WI3+. There's potentially a nice mixed line that follows the smear on the left of W.B. and pulls through the rock roof and finishes on the short face above. I tried the route in 2000 but didn't have much luck at the time as it was late in the season. It wasn't until this year that I returned to check it out again. This time I found a nicer smear to gain access to the roof. I put a TR on it again today to try to suss the moves and see if it would take gear. After 2 tries on the route and no pre inspection. I was climbing very slow and static the first time and ended up popping out of a flared crack at the lip of the roof. The second go I moved much quicker and more dynamic making the larger ledge above the roof, but ended up having my dull pick pop during the mantle. I was optimistic that I'd found a good "gear" route, but upon some inspection I found the rock to be loose and blocky. I could climb it on gear and make it a dangerous route that nobody will ever try or add a bolt or 2 and make it a much safer line that others will enjoy as well. Bummer there's only bad gear, but its like most of the other routes in the area. Short, chossy, and FUN! Here's a few shots of me on the route.
| Still there, the rebuild should be fast |
Laura and I decided to take advantage of what the warm weather had done (opened up some winter roads). We decided to drive to Krahlick to see how the ice weathered through the storm. I had hiked in several weeks ago to check it out. Its not the same angle, but it gives you an idea. It's still reasonably good.
| Krahlick 12/21/ |
| Krahlick 1/3/ |
| Going from ice to rock |
| Moving through the roof... Should be a good route in the near future.... Keep posted! |
Sunday, May 22, 2011
Afternoon at the Beach
It is still pretty quiet here on the beach, and we are really enjoying that. We know that will change very quickly.


Wednesday, May 18, 2011
The Road is Calling
Gunks Routes: Unnamed (Pitch 1 5.0), Dis-Mantel (5.10b) & Dat-Mantel (5.10b)
(Photo: Gail giving Dis-Mantel (5.10b)a try.)
Did I mention that I am on vacation?
I am at the beach. I cannot go rock climbing.
But I am going to try to catch up on my posting.
I have been on the hunt for the easy 5.10 climbs at the Gunks. The climbs on the Mantel block seemed like maybe they would be good candidates. They are short climbs up the sixty-foot block, with roof cruxes.
But those one-move cruxes can be stiff for the grade. I was also worried that these climbs might not be very good, a waste of time.
I had bugged Gail to do these climbs with me for the last few months. We finally got around to them on Friday.
I decided to start with Dis-Mantel, the climb on the right. From the ground it seemed to me that I could get pro in the flake at the first, 5.10b roof. And I thought I might have better luck on Dis-Mantel than on the climb to the left; the roof on Dat-Mantel looked incredibly large.
the early moves up to the first roof on Dis-Mantel were simple enough. But the pro in the flake at the lip was kind of iffy. I got a green Camalot to sit in there but I wasn't absolutely sure about it. I had a rock solid piece back where the roof met the wall but I wanted something higher. There was absolutely no pro up over the roof.
I can't remember if I ever really tested that green Camalot. What I do remember is that I couldn't figure out the move at all. I kept going up and climbing down, trying this and trying that. There was a good hold that was very very far away. I'd read that the climb was height-dependent but this was ridiculous. I couldn't figure out how anyone could reach it. I tried under-clinging the roof, I tried using the flake as a side pull. I tried holding on to various parts of the shallow left-facing corner above the roof. I tried using a little fingerlock seam below the jug. Eventually I decided to give up, climb down a few moves and try Dat-Mantel to the left.
(Photo: Getting the holds above the lip of the roof on Dat-Mantel (5.10b).)
I found a few interesting moves on my way over to the Dat-Mantel roof. I was still below the roof, confronting a thin move up an orange face, when I realized that I didn't have any of my big cams. I'd left my blue # 3 in my bag and I'd somehow used both my red # 1 and my yellow # 2 below. I could see that I needed at least one bigger cam for the horizontal beneath the roof. And who knew what I might need above?
I was trying to decide what to do about this problem when it started raining.
This was the excuse I needed. Things weren't exactly going in my direction anyway. I decided to bail. I backed up my top piece and had Gail lower me, thinking when the rain stopped one of us could go up Unnamed, the climb that ascends the left side of the Mantel block at 5.0, to set up a top rope and retrieve the gear.
When I got to the ground the rain stopped before it even really began. So I led up Unnamed, a climb that has a 5.3 second pitch above the Mantel block. The first pitch, which goes up the left side of the block, is just 5.0. It isn't bad climbing for 5.0. It's better than Dirty Chimney, for sure. The pro is a little funky. There are big vertical cracks but they are flaring. At one point there are three old pitons hammered into one crack, right on top of one another. Maybe they were put in as practice placements, forty or fifty years ago?
Up atop the block is a stone with several ratty old slings and a couple of newish ones threaded. This anchor is well placed for Dat-Mantel. You don't even need a directional.
Gail took the first stab at Dat-Mantel on toprope. She looked a little shaky at the thin move up the orange face below the roof, where I had given up the lead. Then I got the benefit of watching her figure out the huge overhang, which surely helped me when it was my turn. Still, I was happy with how it went when it was my turn. I figured out an easier way to get through the orange face. And I went at the roof a little differently than she did. She crimped up to the horizontal above the roof using some holds that looked truly awful. I had a notion that it would be easier to get up there if I moved a little to the right and this turned out to be a good call. Then I threw a heel, pivoted up, and presto-- I had done it on the first try.
Dat-Mantel is a nice little climb. There are a few nice moves below the roof, and then the roof itself is a good challenge. It is well-protected, too. There is a good slot right where the underside of the roof meets the wall, and then once you get the horizontal above the roof, but before you attempt pulling over, you can get another solid placement. I wish I had been more insistent on going ahead with the lead of this climb. If I'd tried it first instead of Dis-Mantel maybe I would have done it.
I hope to go back this year and send Dat-Mantel on lead.
Dis-Mantel, on the other hand, remains a mystery, and I don't think I will be heading back to lead it. Neither Gail nor I could figure it out, even on top rope. (We set it up from the same threaded station, using a directional placement.) And I'm still not sure how I feel about that cam in the flake at the crux roof. There aren't any cracks for pro above the roof, so even if the cam in the flake holds I don't really like the thought of the fall at that roof if you blow it on lead. The second (5.8) roof also looks to have funky pro. Each of us tried it on top rope by cheating around the first roof to the right, doing the Kernmantle crux before heading left to the second Dis-Mantel roof. Gail had no problem with the second roof but I was so hot and tired by the time I got up there that I blew it once before pulling through it on the second try.
If someone would take me up Dis-Mantel and show me what I'm doing wrong, I'd appreciate it! I still feel reasonably good about the effort. I was safe about it, explored around the roof without losing control, and climbed down when I correctly decided I was out of my depth.
Monday, May 16, 2011
A Homecoming
***
A knock on the door on a chilly night:
"It's me, your friend, do not take fright!
I've roamed the hills to find your street,
with nothing to drink and nothing to eat.
And here I stand under the moon,
in hopes that we'll go riding soon.
Now let me in from the dark of night!
Let's take some photos in the candle light..."








Yes, I've gone mad. Don't judge, it can happen to you.
A knock on the door on a chilly night:
"It's me, your friend, do not take fright!
I've roamed the hills to find your street,
with nothing to drink and nothing to eat.
And here I stand under the moon,
in hopes that we'll go riding soon.
Now let me in from the dark of night!
Let's take some photos in the candle light..."
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