Beautiful Old Tree

The Patagonia guide book!

This is the coolest thing I have seen in awhile. Click on the link below but plan on spending some time there. It is an amazing resource for the community and a innovative format. "Bravo" on the idea and follow through for all involved!



Make sure to dbl click the 3 enclosed topo photos for full value and an idea of the scale of this project!

http://www.pataclimb.com/



"The Chaltén Massif was once a faraway land, a place where mountaineers could live a simple and adventurous life in the wild. Until the early eighties few expeditions visited the area every year but soon, due to a sharp rise in popularity and the advent of the town of El Chaltén for geopolitical reasons, things changed. The bridge over Río Fitz Roy was the first step, which was followed by roads, services, pavement, infrastructure, weather forecasts, etc. In spite of these changes the beauty of the peaks is still the same and Patagonia’s most precious treasure: its fierce winds and storms, continue to blow through the land as strong as ever, reminding us of our insignificance."





http://www.pataclimb.com/

Memorial Weather

Both high camps have been receiving lots of new snow over the past couple of days. Memorial Day itself put drifts up to 50 cm deep around camp. High winds (40-50 mph) pasted the wet snow to most surfaces. The general forecast, at least initially, looks better for early-June. Hopefully we'll avoid the all too common "Junuary" weather pattern.






Climbers have been unsuccessful in reaching the summit for almost a week due to weather and avalanche concerns - although challenging conditions have been welcome training conditions for climbers with their sights set on even loftier peaks.




Stop by the Climbing Information Center in Paradise for the most current information on the mountain. We're open everyday at 06:00 - come on up and talk to us early, the Paradise Inn is open again for the season and they do serve espresso!




See you on The Mountain.

Happy Birthday, Austin!

Today was Austin's 16th birthday. He has been looking forward to this one for a long time! Happy Birthday son!



Our sweet pickleball friend, Charlotte, has a birthday only a few days from Austin's so we had to celebrate with her too. Unfortunately I forgot to snap a picture before we ate the cake, but at least we still had the writing left for this picture.

Diamond Frames and Sizing: How Big Is Too Big?

I have come into the possession of a roadbike that was described by the previous owner as a 52cm frame, but in fact measures 54.5cm. On a diamond frame, that can be a significant difference, and I am trying to determine- without giving in to wishful thinking -whether the bike is too big for me to ride safely. When it comes to step-through bicycles, I prefer to ride the largest frame possible, as long as I am able to hoist myself onto the saddle. My Gazelle is 57cm, myRaleigh DL-1 is 56cm, and my Bella Ciao is 54cm. But with a diamond frame, that approach is not possible, because top tube clearance is an additional factor to consider. That is why my roadbikes have 52cm frames.



To illustrate what a difference just over 2cm can make, here is the new fosterbike (right), face to face with one of my 52cm roadbikes(left). The perspective of the shots exaggerates the larger bike, but look at the space between the lugs on the head tubes to get a more accurate sense of the difference. It is considerable.



The bike is not in rideable condition, so I can't try it out. But standing over the top tube inmy bare feet, there is less than 1mm of clearance between my"soft tissue" and that black cable.

In the shoes I usually wear, the space underneath my forefinger illustrates the clearance I get - less than 1/2". The bike needs a lot of work and some component replacements, before I can actually ride it and determine for sure whether I am okay with so little clearance. And naturally, I am reluctant to do that work if in the end I won't be able to ride it. My main worry, is that when dismounting I might hit my pelvis on the top tube, since our knees tend to bend a little when we jump. But I am not sure whether in actuality that is a valid concern.



How much top tube clearance are you comfortable with? Are there standard guidelines for how much clearance is "safe"?

Arthingworth fig of 8, with Oxendon tunnel

Led by Barry. With Maureen, Gordon, Eddie and me. 8 miles. Misty, then very warm.

Too much, too yellow, too smelly, too high . . .

In Arthingworth, take Oxenden Rd and follow to the end, where it is possible to park. Take footpath on right hand side, next to houses and follow field boundaries - two shortish fields with a very big one in the middle. The path goes from the left hand side of the hedge to the right. Just after the boundary in the fourth field, he path crosses diagonally to the right and up hill past Round Spinney, then at the next boundary turns slightly to the right, and cuts across a field to the road. There is a trig point (146 m) just to our left.








Cross the road (following the Midshires Way) . This is soon joined by the Jurassic and Macmillan Ways. The path leads towards Braybrooke, whose church is clearly visible.





We leave the Jurassic etc Ways, when they turn to the right. We turn off to the left. The footpath is clearly marked.




At his point we walked for a considerable distance through the yellow lurgy rapeseed flowers. Finally we arrived, with some relief, at the Brampton Valley Way, where we turned right and followed the route almost into Market Harborough.




A left turn along the main road took us to a convenient bench for a snack, then we turned left again onto a footpath which brought us via a field with a couple of horses, back to the point where we joined the BVW. (This is part of the figure of eight).

On the border - between Northants and Leics.

Turn right along the Brampton Valley Way, through the Oxenden Tunnel - really a torch is not a bad idea as the surface is a bit muddy and uneven. Continue along the BVW until you reach the turning to Arthingworth - to the left. Follow the track/road back to the start of the walk.

Ostria Restaurant Dinner in Votsalakia

Eating out in Samos Island, Greece is very cheap, you spend approximately 30+- euros for 2 pax (1 starter + 2 mains + 2 drinks). We normally have coffee somewhere else at a lounge or bar. Thus, we ate out every night (we still have a week to go to enjoy this island!) and I will be posting all our dinners (and lunches) at different restaurants.



Hopefully, those who stumble upon this blog whilst planning for their prospective Samos holiday will have an idea where to eat and what to expect. My way of giving back to travellers and holidaymakers out there.



First night dinner at Ostria Restaurant



We were quite intrigued with this restaurant because you cannot see the dining area except for a pathway leading to the beach. The pathway is partly covered with vines crawling on a trellis with grapes hanging from it. The restaurant is indeed located on the sea side which makes it very attractive and quite romantic as well.













The restaurant has no website but it is listed on Trip Advisor, go here: Ostria



Kambos area (Votsalakia beach) in Marathokampos municipality is small so it is easy to find this restaurant as it is located on the main town’s street.



Special menu of the day



We ordered their special menu of the day that includes a Greek salad. Dutchman, the Burger special with Tzatziki, and moi, the Grilled Dorade Fish (gilt-head bream or bream fish) special with lemon sauce. Of course, a quarter Samian white wine for me as well. Samos has its own wine culture and is quite famous locally.











Food here is quite good. Not a fan really of French fries but I loved my Grilled Dorade fish. 4.25 stars out of 5. The ambiance here at the restaurant is fresh and lovely. They also gave us free coffee to close the dinner. In Samos, all restaurants give you a surprise free thing after dinner. The surprise vary per restaurant!



Beach view



But what we really enjoyed most were the beautiful views, and oh, the sunset! So relaxing...









If in Votsalakia - Kambos area, don’t miss this restaurant, for lunch or dinner.



More food posts coming!

Daydreams

Cycling through the city yesterday, I almost felt as if I was being shown one of those videos of "How Boston Could Be 5 Years from Now"... except it was real.

Passing through a stretch of the Charles River trail, it seemed that almost everyone sitting by the water had arrived there by bicycle. And the majority of the bikes looked to be personalised and well-ridden - rather than the sort of bicycle that is either a rental, or ridden once in a while on a sunny weekend. The velo-atmosphere is distinctly different from last summer.

Having crossed the BU Bridge, which is now under construction, I then looked at it from the trail and thought about the Charles River Bridge Campaign that I had mentioned in a previous post. This campaign aims to ensure that along with the scheduled repairs to the bridges, practical improvements will also be made that will make the bridges more walkable, more cyclable, and generally more enjoyable. The possibility of benches and shady promenades was mentioned.

Can the huge, dangerous bridges over the Charles really be made to resembles these lovely smaller ones? That would be utter Utopia.

And Utopia is not necessarily impossible.

At least the bicycles of Boston are hopeful.

65 Miles Later

Despite our idyllically mild summer, I have not been doing much in the way of long or difficult rides. Somehow I just haven't been able to get into the rhythm of things after returning from Ireland. My body is absolutely treacherous when it comes to things like this, too. The more and harder I ride, the more and harder it wants to ride. But if I ease up, it quickly gets lethargic and soft, creating a vicious cycle. "I can't join that fast group ride today, I am too out of shape!..." but of course that only makes it worse for next time.




Today, however, I woke up with a calm sense of certainty. This was the day I would get off my butt, move my schedule around, and go on a long ride. I didn't know how long, but it was going to happen. Setting off in the early afternoon, I eased myself into it by stoppingat the Ride Studio Cafe10 miles in. I think secretly I hoped there would be someone there who'd ride with me, saving me from the urge to sit around drinking coffee and reading magazines all day. But no such luck. Summoning my willpower I pressed on.




And after that, something strange happened. Namely, I sort of relaxed on the bike and got lost in daydreaming. This happens to me sometimes, but never for this long. Before I knew it I was approaching the end of a familiar training loop on auto-pilot. Surprised and not feeling very creative, I could think of nothing to do but repeat the loop, determined to be more mindful this time around. There is a hill along the way, and it's one I have always disliked. How was it possible that I hadn't noticed it, daydreaming while climbing and not even feeling the dreaded "out of shape" pain?




The second time around the loop, I approached the hill with awareness. Okay, so here it was ahead. I downshifted. Now here I was, cycling up the hill. I waited for the misery of it to wash over me, but it didn't. Instead, it was almost meditative. Enjoying the shade of the leafy trees, my mind wandered in the middle of the climb. Before I knew it, I'd completed the entire loop again and it was time to ride home before it got dark.




I rode a total of 65 miles and it took me about 4 hours. It was not a difficult route, but I am still surprised that I was able to just go out and do it. My muscles may have turned to jelly over the past couple of months, but apparently some of the endurance I'd built up is still there.The mysterious ways in which the human body responds to cycling and changes because of it never cease to amaze me.Several hours and a cheeseburger later, I am now clutching my aching legs,reaching for Ibuprofen,and complaining - but also feeling deliciously alive.No matter what we might think, we are never too out of shape for a ride.

Snow Pony

This is BlackJack in the 6 inches of snow we had last week.

Buster, Rover, and Bootsie

Late summer 1949 - Becky, Dad, Shep, and Doug.
1988 - Buster and one of my nieces.
1988 - Rover and Bootsie
1988 - Bootsie on top of her doghouse.
August 1992 - Bootsie

Growing up, the only pets we ever had were dogs. For whatever reason, Mom didn't like cats, so dogs it was! We went through quite a few of them. They tended to disappear though. Some got run over by cars, others were shot by irate neighbors or hunters. So we learned to enjoy them while they were around but almost never got "attached" to them. Of course, we were saddened when they were gone but another dog was there to replace them almost immediately. The two that I remember most during my high school days are Lady and Missy. Lady was a dachshund and Missy was a mixed breed. After I left home and while in the Navy I didn't have any pets. It wasn't until much later in my life that dogs became family members.

About 1981, my sister got Buster. I think he was a mix of poodle and some kind of terrier. Not tiny, but he was a small dog. He was also a fierce protector of my nieces. When my sister moved to Florida in the fall of 1988 she left Buster with one of her neighbors. Due to unforeseen circumstances my nieces came to live with my mother and me. They immediately asked if they could get Buster back. We checked with the neighbor and she agreed to let us have Buster and that is how he came to live with us. By the time he passed away five years later, he was blind and could hardly walk. We came home one day and found him dead.

In the previous year, 1987, my mother and I had purchased a vacant, old, run-down farmhouse. It was a fixer-upper but the price was right and it came with two acres of land. Almost immediately, we got dogs. They were drifters, just passing through, or dropped off by motorists. They didn't stay long though. We decided to get our own dog hoping it would stay around for a while and keep the strays away. Thus, Rover, a German Shepherd was given to us by a co-worker. He was only a couple of months old and kind of a klutz. He never did grow out of the awkwardness. About this time we also took in my brother's dog, Bootsie. She was about two years old and was a mix of Springer Spaniel and black Labrador. Though older than Rover, Bootsie was still kind of a klutz too. She had spent much of her day-time life in a cage. So she really didn't like to be confined.

So now we had three dogs! And wonder of wonders, they all got along pretty well together. Buster stayed inside most of the time while Bootsie and Rover were outside dogs. We kept Bootsie and Rover on chains most of the time. We'd let one of them loose at a time so they could run but if they were both loose at the same time, they'd sometimes be gone for days. They loved to run. Rover was the plodder and Bootsie was the graceful dame. She loved to sit on top of her doghouse. She could jump on top of it with the greatest of ease. All Rover could do was get his front paws on top.

One summer Bootsie was diagnosed with heartworm and we had to keep her and Rover separated while she underwent the treatment. Bootsie was moved down to the barn and Rover was kept up by the house. It was just awful, like a couple of kids crying constantly. Night time was the worst though, they sounded like wolves howling. It was funny and sad all at once.

We decided to put in a fenced area so the dogs wouldn't have to be chained. Great idea, right? A five-foot high fence was installed around a large area, 30x60 feet and their dog houses moved inside. We should have known it wouldn't work. We kept seeing Bootsie outside the fence when no one had let her out. One day I happened to see how she did it. Amazing really. She'd get a running start and jump, getting her front paws just over the top of the fence, then using her back paws and the wire fence push and claw her way over the top to freedom. So we sometimes just let her go but when we needed to keep her in the dog run with Rover we'd chain her up inside. If she wanted to get away from him all she had to do was jump on top of the dog house!

Rover made it through about three years. He liked to chase vehicles and one day got too close to a tractor pulling a plow. He made his way back to the house where we found him, still breathing but not long for this world. I stayed by his side until he passed away. Bootsie came up a couple times, sniffed and walked away. It was like she knew. We buried him out back behind the barn, where a few years later Buster joined him.

After Rover died, Bootsie pretty much stayed around the property so we took down the fence and just let her run loose. She also started spending the nights in the house. Bootsie had done a great job of killing the ground hogs and other vermin and liked to bring "trophies" home to us. One time I saw her across the field dragging something along. It was almost as big as she was and she was having one heck of a time pulling it across the field. She finally gets it up to the back steps and just plops down, exhausted. Really gross. The head and part of the carcass of a calf. We contacted our farmer-neighbor not quite knowing what to think. He laughed when we told him what Bootsie had done and then told us not to worry. For whatever reason the calf had been killed and the carcass had been dumped on the field along with manure for fertilizer. The remains of the calf were buried after Bootsie finished wallowing in it. The smell was horrific. And Bootsie got a bath.

For a while we thought we were going to have to have Bootsie put to sleep. She was having trouble walking and climbing the stairs. She slept upstairs in my room at night. In a visit to the vet we found out she had hip problems. He thought he could fix her up without surgery, which was a relief. I don't remember how many shots she had but he gave her something that was normally only used on horses, but it fixed her up and she was better than ever after the treatments.

When we sold the farmhouse in the fall of 1997 and moved to a subdivision near Columbia City we took Bootsie with us. She was fine with the move but because we were living in a more settled area, dogs were not supposed to run loose. She had to be kept on a leash or chained up while outside. And, of course, she didn't like that. She also didn't like loud noises, like thunderstorms and fireworks. The week of the Fourth of July the following year about did her in. She'd climb up on my lap, mind you she was a fairly large dog, and just lay there and shake. There really wasn't anything I could do to help her. Mom suggested giving her a sleeping pill thinking it might relax her. I called the vet and he said half a pill wouldn't hurt her, so with half a sleeping pill every night that week she endured that Fourth of July.

Another year went by and it was getting harder and harder to get Bootsie to go outside. She'd go on the leash if we told her we were going for a walk but she barked constantly when chained up. During the day, while I was at work, she spent most of her time in the garage. She wasn't eating much either and she started snapping at passersby. So it was in June of 1999 that I took Bootsie to the vet one last time. I couldn't bear to see her put under so just left her with the vet. As she was walking away she stopped and turned and looked at me with those soulful eyes. She knew. I was fine until then. And then the tears came, as they are now, while writing this, nine years later. I was supposed to go in to work that day, but didn't. I just drove around, crying. All day long.

Every once in a while Mom and I would talk about getting another dog, but we never did. The house has been sold, and now, living in an apartment just isn't conducive to pet ownership. I was never into birds or cats or fish. Someday, maybe I'll have another dog...

This post was written for the 50th Carnival of Genealogy whose topic is "Family Pets!"

_____________________Nick Hall______________________

It's been one long year since we lost you.

We won't ever forget your friendship or your style.

Thanks for the inspiration to do more, do it better.

The mountains are still out there.

We're still climbing.

Miss you a ton.

Internet Connection sees 2nd ascent

Yesterday I made plans to climb with my friend and health/rehab advisor, Andy Shriner and his friend Brad from Morgantown, WV. Andy is a motivated rock and ice climber who moved to Morgantown from Cincinnati, OH this past year. Andy has been chomping at the bit to get out on the local ice I've told so many stories about. Actually Andy is fortunate to be climbing any ice this season after having been caught in an avalanche at the base of Pinnacle Gully in NH earlier this winter. Luckily he walked (limped) away with experience, a banged up knee, and a story to tell. Laura, my girlfriend/climbing partner decided to take a rest day Sunday, so I took a long shot and called Tom Thomas, a climbing friend from here in SWPA to see if he wanted to join our crew. I figured he'd already made plans with others and was going to decline. Either way I know he loves harder mixed climbs and called to invite him. The phone conversation went something like this... Hey Tom it's Tim, what's up? TOM: Tim, great to hear from you. I've been climbing a lot, like the last 6 days. ME: Awesome, glad you've been getting out. Want to climb some cool mixed stuff tomorrow? TOM: HELL YEAH! Where and what time do you want to meet? ME: How about Valley Dairy in Connellsville at 9:30? TOM: Perfect, see you in the morning... What do I need to bring? Never mind, I'm coming with you, who knows what we'll be getting into, I'll bring lots of shit for anything! Cool...




So the day was set. We met at the SWPA climber meeting spot of Valley Dairy Restaurant in Connellsville. Introductions were made and we enjoyed a delicious breakfast telling climbing tales and getting stoked for the day ahead. After breakfast we went outside to pile into vehicles to head for the crag. I followed Tom to his car to help shuttle his gear over to my car for departure and I received my first glimpse as to what Tom meant by "I'll bring lots of shit for anything." Let me just say, he was truly prepared. In addition to a normal "kit", his car contained multiple boots, ropes, racks and bin full of pins, bolts, shuts, drill, etc... Kudos Tom for some true climbing preparation! Although we didn't use much of your massive pile this outing, we'll be needing it for establishing new test pieces when things come back in.

Andy and Tom getting ready for the long approach

We made the short 10min. drive to the South Connellsville Rod and Gun club from the restaurant. Everyone was amazed as we pulled into the shooting range and the ice appeared in front of us. The Pistol Whipped Wall was looking even better than a few days prior. As much as I want to get on these they getting plenty of sun and were about ready to crash down as we were leaving. More for future outings as usual (not a bad thing in my eyes).

The Pistol Whipped Wall, before the sun

We walked down range to check out the lines and develop a game plan. Everyone was stoked with the appearance of the climbs and we opted to climb in the Internet Connection area. We went back to the car and loaded up what was needed for the days events (a very nice luxury at The Gun Club).After packing up and walking back over to the climbs, Tom was debating whether to get on Internet Connection for a send or just top tope it. With 6 consecutive days of climbing behind him, I could easily understand his serious debate. Internet Connection WI5 M7is an intimidating line that starts with overhanging moves and a heel hook off the ground to get established on thin ice which is followed by many heady and powerful moves all the way to the finish. I'm not sure I'd want to get on it without feeling reasonably fresh. After discussion with the group and himself aloud, Tom opted to tie in and give it a go since it has only formed twice since 2007.

Tom and Brad weighing the options

Good thing he did... Tom put on an impressive display of climbing, both mental and physical. He inched his way up the line through sections of delicate moves, followed by powerful moves that involved verbal displays that would make Chris Sharma proud. In the end Tom put in effort and got the job done. He successfully sent the line becoming the 2nd ascentionist since Laura and I first sent the line back in 2007. Here's a photo recap of Tom sending the line while being belayed by Brad.

Mixed start to thin ice

Exceptionally fat ice through this section

Nearing the top of the "Gully"

An airy, overhanging traverse to thin ice

Tom Thomas says "You really have to try this"

Working up delicate terrain

Great work on a proud send, Tom Thomas on Internet Connection WI5 M7

After Tom's great send, Brad who is relatively new to ice, but a seasoned, veteran outdoor athlete and longtime New River Gorge local; had the opportunity to second this exciting climb. Brad put in great efforts and made his way up the line. With a little practice and experience Brad will be a sending machine as well. Here's a few photos that Tom snapped of Brad going up after his climb.

Brad on Internet Connection, photo T.T.

Brad on Internet Connection, photo T.T.

Brad on Internet Connection, photo T.T.

After watching Tom lead Internet Connection, Andy and I walked over to climb the Alpine Ascent Gully M4 in the fattest conditions I've ever seen. This normally boney line reminiscent of the 2nd pitch of the Black Dike, had fat ice on it. Andy took the sharp end and led this short, but sweet line up to the ledge. From there we dropped a top rope on a rare former I've eyed over the years. We all took turns trying this new line and having a great day filled with sunshine. Despite my newly injured right shoulder, I managed to join the fun and climbed Internet Connection and the top route line without hurting myself further. I even managed to get some more mileage on my Lowa Ice Comp GTX "fruit boots." It was a great day with friends. Tom snagged the 2nd ascent of Internet Connection, Andy and Brad swung picks into some of the best SWPA ice of the season and I had the luxury of a fun day with some good friends.

One of the many options at The Gun Club yesterday, photo T.T.

But, the story doesn't end there... Long time friend and local legend, Ray Burnsworth showed up with his pal "Stink" the dog. I called him early Sunday telling him of our "crew" heading out to the club and invited him to come hang out. He showed up and met the guys hanging out and helping to guard us from those coming to shoot and not seeing us on the wall downrange. Thanks Rayman for keeping us alive from additional dangers most ice climbers don't have to consider... Well there's a story after the story. Ray not only had to protect us today, but another friend of his. "Ig" Read Ray's recap of our climbing day and his additional craziness on his Wildfilm Blog.

Local icon Ray Burnsworth, "don't mess with IG"