Sunday, August 31, 2014

"Home Field Advantage"



Montana locals schooling two of the visiting Oregon boys on "Home Field Advantage" just moments after the first ascent.



This climb and the photo has everything that I love about modern mixed routes. Bolts, natural pro, an obviously attentive belayer, and a sky pilot who is truly leashless!



How does that old saying go John? Something about, "One in the hand?"





The amazing action photo (and FA) is by the legendary Montana ice hardman, Pete Tapley. Make sure you dbl click the photo for full effect. And please respect Pete's copyright.







John pitching and Brian catching. Bird Boy John Frieh's training blog has a link here on C/T.





















And John again, just saying hello after another test of those angel wings :) Craig Gyselinck's photo

Thursday, August 28, 2014

Cold Snap and Frozen Waterfalls

The mountain sustained several days of sub-freezing temperatures between Feb 16th-20th and the trend is expected to continue for the next six days.

During that time numerous frozen waterfalls formed along the Nisqually-Paradise Road. Here are a few images... The approach is rather short, and the ice seems to be getting thicker each day.

It was cold and blustery Friday and Saturday, particularly on the Muir Snowfield. I ran into a number of parties that turned back from their Camp Muir and/or summit plans because of the winds and temperatures. A few hardy groups did make it to Camp Muir on Saturday night, but those east winds and cold temps intensified with elevation and in the end, most parties lost their summit steam. And rightfully so, I recorded -7° F and a steady 20-25 MPH wind at Camp Muir.

On
Feb 10/11th, Ted cleared a mountain of snow at Camp Muir. Thankfully, his handy work was still intact, as access to the Public Shelter, restroom, and emergeny radio remained easy.

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Wordless Wednesday :: Another Rainy Day



Mother Nature seems to be alternating between two days of gray, gloomy, rainy days then two days of beautiful blue skies and sunshine, etc., etc. You learn to take advantage of the “good” days!



Velo Inventory

Sometimes I am asked how many bicycles I have and what is the function of each. As we are building up my custom Royal H. mixte, I have been giving this some thought. I do not want to have redundant bikes and therefore I need to make some decisions. So here is my velo-inventory for the world to see - and pass harsh judgment upon, if so desired.



Pashley Princess Sovereign (Eustacia Vye)



used as:
a transport bike

age: made in

unique? No. My vintage Raleigh performs the same role.

pros and cons? Pros: very stable and great in bad weather. Cons: very heavy and more sluggish than my vintage Raleigh.



Raleigh DL-1 Lady Tourist (Velouria)



used as: a transport bike

age: made in 1973

unique? No. My Pashley Princess performs the same role.

pros and cons? Pros: As fast and nimble as this kind of bike can possibly be. Cons: It is old and I am afraid to rely on it as my only transport bike.





Rivendell Sam Hillborne (Graham Greene)



used as: a road and touring bike

age: made in

unique? Yes. I have no other bike like this.

pros and cons? Pros: A fast and extremely comfortable bike for road cycling. Cons: none.



Mercier Mixte (Suzanne)



used as: an errand bike to keep in my photography studio (which is in another town) for running local errands

age: made in the late 1960's or early 1970's

unique? No. My Motobecane Mirage mixte could take its place.

pros and cons? Pros: makes a great errand bike. Cons: It is old and ever-so-slightly too small for me.



Motobecane Mirage Mixte (Marianne)



used as: A light touring bike when I want to be upright, yet go fast-ish and climb hills

age: made in 1981

unique? No. My new custom mixte will make it redundant.

pros and cons? Pros: It is pretty, but not a rare or high-end bike; can lock it up and not worry. Cons: It is too aggressive for its purpose; not a comfortable bike.



Royal H. Mixte (not yet built up or named)



(will be) used as: a light touring bike when I want to be upright, yet go fast-ish and climb hills

age: frame built in

unique? No. The vintage Motobecane already serves the same function.

pros and cons? Pros: Hopefully, when all built up it will be perfect. Cons: I will be afraid to lock it up and leave it unattended anywhere.



So there you have it, my inventory to date. As you can see, I "only" have 5 bikes so far, which I do not think is too insane. Okay, and a 6th one being built up. Still not totally bonkers, right?..



In terms of bikes performing overlapping roles, there are two major redundancies: the Pashley vs the vintage Raleigh, and the Royal H. mixte vs. the vintage Motobecane. The redundancies bother me, and I would like to have only one bike in each category. This would mean either selling whichever bike is redundant, or repurposing them in some way. Not at all sure what I will do yet regarding the Pashley vs Raleigh conflict. As for the vintage Motobecane mixte, she is currently in the process of being saved from elimination (or being butchered, depending on your perspective). God, I guess I do have too many bikes!

Monday, August 25, 2014

the best of the lwt ice climbing boots






The LWT ice boots:





Things have changed in the last couple of years and it continues tobe for the better!

































Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45 1# 14oz




Scarpa Phantom Ultra size 45 weight 2# 4oz










La Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz







La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45 2# 2oz











La Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz




















Largervolume on the left, the Batura 2.0 and the smallervolume, the Rebel Ultra, on the right

All these boots fall between these two for volume and warmth.




weights are PER Boot:



Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45 1# 14oz



La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45 2# 2oz



Scarpa Phantom Ultra size 45 weight 2# 4oz



La
Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz




Zamberlan Paine GTX 2# 8oz



(how much do
your gaiters weigh?)



Every boot listedhere except the Trango has a gaiter built in.

All are Goretex lined. Except the PhantomUltra. Which is notable imo.



La Sportiva Trango Prime is another boot that would fit this category.



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//11/la-sportiva-trango-prime-trango-extreme.html



These are fiveof my favorite lwt single boots for
winter use. Given the option it is a hard
decision on which to choose when looking at the temps that will easily allow
any of them.



Soles flexibility depends on you shoe size. The bigger the boot the more flexible the boot sole.

All of these boots are rigid enough for vertical ice using the right crampons. "Right" crampon choice on these boots is the key toperformance IMO.






Scarpa's PhantomUltra





Phantom Ultra in use with a PetzlDartwin




I am a big boy weight wise. 190# stripped and a good bit more kitted out on the ice. The Scarpa Ultra (both versions) and a Dartwin is IMO a very good set up for vertical ice. This coming for a guy who really prefers a rigid crampon and rigid boot mid sole. I learned to appreciate the softer flexing mid solesScarpa has offered recently.



But given a choice I still like a fairlyrigid boot with lots of support. Thelighter weight thebetter, imo.



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//01/true-love-dane-and-his-boots.html





Let me do a run down of my thoughts on each and let you
choose.



I have long skinny feet with very (VERY) narrow ankles. I'm a Size 45 or 45.5in theseboots. The Scarpa and Zamberlan lasts seem to fit me the best. I see a lot of comments saying theLa Sportivas are a narrower last. I am not convinced as I can wear any of them with little complaint.Best to always try on the boots you want to consider. I find all of theboots listed very close on sizing and lasts. Only toe boxes changing the fit very much and of course the lacing systems. For melacing systems are best designed, KISS. KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID.They make or a break a boot in the end. I think that gets forgotten some times by the design teams.I run between a 45 and a 45.5 in all of these boots.



Here is my 2 second review on all of them.




Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45 1# 14oz



Best fit of the bunch for me in a 45.5 by far. Easy enough to get in and out of.Lacing is slick and ankle support very good. I like this boot. For the fit and support it offers for the weight I'll put up with the lack of warmth to a point. 1/2# per pair lighterthan the Batura.



La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45 2# 2oz



Likely the warmest of the boots listed. But the Phantom Ultra is right in there as well. Very flexible ankle and a high tech honeycomb carbon mid sole. Hard to notlike this boot. I find the lace system annoying. If the lace system offered a better fit for methiswould likely be "my" boot.



Scarpa Phantom Ultra size 45 weight 2# 4oz



Advantage Scarpa here. Almost the fitof a Rebel Ultra. Almost the warmth of the Batura. Heavier than either. Easy in and out. They dry faster than any of the GTXboots and they climb well. I suspect they dry faster because they never get as wet on the inside. The Goldilocks boot? May be. It needs a Scarpa update and to be imported into North America in half sizes. Likely never ever happen though. Phantom Guide is already well established in the market.



La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz



Super slid all around performer. This is the boot that needed a gaiter. One designed"out of the box."But a super hard boot to dry out once wet. I really like this boot for a lot of reasons. The best reason? It is simple and it works every where.....till it gets wet inside.



Zamberlan Paine GTX 2# 8oz



Old school fit and finish. Which are good things. The mid sole is pretty rigid and very supportive. They fit almost crampon exceptionally well. Not every boot here does. They are a bit heavy. But the craftsmanship and materials clearly show you why they are 6oz heavier per boot than the Batura 2.0. If you have the money for only one boot and need it to last for a while. This is your boot. May be the most comfortable boot of the bunch for me out of the box.


FWIW until recently the Zamberlan boots were extremely hard to get a hold of in the USA. That has changed.I'll have full, detailed reviews up shortly on the Paine, Eiger and Denali versions. They are bootsyou will want to know more about. Took me 3 years to finally get a pair in hand and I think, worth the wait.



They areavailable here:

http://www.prolitegear.com/Zamberlan.htm



All but twoof the boots
offersticky rubber soles with minimal lug height. The Zamberlan Paine and the La Sportiva Batura 2.0 being the exceptions with a full size lugs. Makes short lugsa little slick in some snow conditions. But that is why we wear crampons isn't it?



I have heardof the Trango having too narrow of a foot print and being unpleasant on
trails..an "ankle twister". "BS" was my first thought...but I heard it more
than once and always from people I trust using the boot. Not something I
personally experienced though. And I have walked a bunch in the Trangos.



The Ultra is a OutDry lined boot. The
restGoretex lined boots.



All stay dry if you keep the water below
boot top height. The GTX bootsseems to retain more moisture from foot sweat.
Allare difficult to dry once wet.



More here on an Ultra and Trango comparison I made earlier. I was wrong on the Dart/Dartwin/Ultra combo btw. There are crampons that can be made to fit better but none more reliable and proven over the last couple of years nowthan the Scarpa-Dartwin combo.



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//12/phantom-ultra-vs-trango-extreme-gtx.html



Lots of options these days to get a really good boot and more importantly to me a GOOD fit. It has not always been so in this category of boot. Some work to be done yet.



As I have mentioned so many times previous.

A super light weight double boot that will climb ice, under the magic1.5# in a size 45. And something you can actually dry in the field over night should be the on every one's mind.



Till then I will do my best to wear a few of these out!







Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Ingalls Lake and Ingalls Peak




A big group ready to hit the trail to Ingalls Lake and the South Summit of Ingalls Peak.






Ingalls Lake on a beautiful fall day.






Dave, Pete and Jim on the South Summit. Mt. Stuart in the background.




Saturday, August 16, 2014

Provincetown Cycle Yum

I have received a couple of messages asking to recommend "cyclist-friendly" places to eat in Provincetown. This is a tricky one - First, because everyone's taste in this sort of thing is different. And second, because there is really no divide in Provincetown between regular places and "cyclist-friendly": Most restaurants and cafes have racks either right out front, or else the nearest one is half a block down the street. Having said this, here are some of our favourite places:

Spiritus: This magnificent establishment serves pizza, coffee and ice-cream, offers free wireless internet, has cozy indoor seating and an outside garden, and is open until 2:00am year round. Their pizza is some of the best I have ever had, especially the Greek (spinach, olives and fetta on an ultra-thin wheat crust). Heavenly and a great all-around hangout.

The Squealing Pig: Best raw oysters we have had on the Cape so far, and in a non-touristy atmosphere at that. In addition: a fine selection of unusual beers and local wines on tap, and very fresh, delicious food including fishburgers, and french fries that are "hand cut daily". There are always lots of locals eating at this place, and we like the atmosphere better than the seafood places that cater to tourists, such as The Lobster Pot or Betsey's. If you are looking for a higher-end dining experience though, try the delicate and creative menu at The Mews.

The Purple Feather: Very yummy gelato and the best hot chocolate ever, made to order to your specifications. You will recognise this place by the stuffed bear standing at the door, wearing a blond wig and purple lingerie. This is the best place if you want to get an ice cream or hot chocolate to walk around the streets with. For the best indoor atmosphere though, I prefer the dim coziness of the Art House Cafe.

As mentioned in an earlier post, Provincetown is the most bicycle-friendly town I have experienced in the U.S. The infrastructure accommodates cyclists and plenty of bicycle parking is available if you want to stop and eat in town.

Patagonia Sun Hoody

One of the really fun things about winter alpine climbing is the amount of gear it takes. OK, one of the really annoying things about winter alpine climbing is how much gear it takes.



Because of that I am always looking for gear to make my fun..more fun.



Once in a while you come across something that is a total surprise and you wonder how you ever got along without it. Patagonia's R1 Hoody comes to mind. Patagonia's Sun Hoody is the easy to wear, base layer that is lighter yet than the R1 Hoody. And I am not a big fan of Patagonia clothing. Generally is is over priced imo and not very well tailored for the price point they ask.



But not the case on this one. Seldom do I find a useful piece of climbing clothing that I want on every climb winter or summer, rock or ice, but also a piece of clothing I want to wear every day...24 hrs a day. And this one I do. I really do. Admittedly I look like a dork in it but I LOVE this hoody! Wearing one as I type this as matter of fact. Yes, it is SICK...but these things rock!









I now own three of them and would own more if I could find them.

$65 @ full retail and so far I have only seen two colors...off white/silver and the ninja color, olive drab. Gotta love the military contracts!







Patagonia sez:



Men's Lightweight Sun Hoody $65 msrp

Breathable, fast-drying hooded top with 30 UPF sun protection for next-to-skin use.



A highly evolved second skin designed to maximize your time on the water. For simultaneous air conditioning and tough 30 UPF sun protection, the super breathable, fast drying Sun Hoody is made of lightweight polyester jersey. A 3 panel hood protects your head, a hip closure pocket keeps keys, wax and hand lines sorted, and we've added thumb loops at the cuffs for added coverage. Recyclable through the Common Threads Recycling Program.



Details

•Soft and supple polyester fabric with sun protection

•3-panel, self-fabric hood provides airy, ventilated sun protection

•Thumb loops at cuffs for added coverage and sun protection

•Zippered pocket at hip

•Flat seams reduce chafe

•4.3-oz 100% polyester jersey with 30-UPF sun protection. Recyclable through the Common Threads Recycling Program

•246 g (8.7 oz)

•Made in Vietnam.



Technology



The UV protection offered by this garment is rated “very good.” *



* When tested in accordance with Australian/New Zealand test methods AS/NZS 4399 or AATCC 183/ASTM6603/ASTM D6544.

Super Summit

Recent news begins with Dave Uberauga's and Randy King's successful ascent of the mountain last Saturday. If you don't know, Dave is Superintendent and Randy is the Deputy Superintendent of Mount Rainier National Park. Perhaps you haven't seen them much on the mountain because they have been rather busy with the flood recovery, Paradise construction projects, new guide services and routine "day to day" business of the park since their last attempt in 2006.

We're all smiles in this summit photo, taken after a 6 - 1/2 hour ascent from Camp Muir up the DC-Emmons variation. On Saturday, we found excellent conditions: firm snow, light winds, great boot-track (though LONG). Somehow, a rather sizable rock wedged into Dave's crampons (he's on the left in the photo) at Cathedral Gap and he carried it to 12,300ft before discovering the handicap! Randy (right in photo) wasn't interested in extra weight, and stayed focused on technique since his last 3 summit attempts were thwarted by rescues and/or bad weather.

Aside from climbing, they spent the better part of Thursday and Friday talking to the public, guides, climbing rangers and Ted (guru of all things "essential" at Camp Muir) to get a sense of the mountain action. The main points of attention were the Camp Muir plan (which addresses facility and toilet deficiencies) and the new guide service operations.

CLIMBING AND ROUTES: This is that time of year when some of Mt Rainier's climbing routes begin to really loose their fancy with climbers and skiers. It's not that they are "closed" or "unclimbable," it's just that experienced climbers generally get nervous when too much of the route is threatened by rockfall or blocked by gaping crevasses. As an example, a few teams attempted Liberty and Ptarmigan last week; neither were able to get "on route" due to the hazards/obstacles.

SAFETY: And speaking of crevasses - go to the Muir Snowfield. Look for a thin gash in the ice near 9,200 feet (top of Moon Rocks). I'm sure it will grow, and I'm sure there will be more. And how about another safety reminder? Wear your helmet when climbing to the summit! Also, the weather has been quite warm. When it is, expect soft snow by late morning and early afternoon. This could be welcome news to some (b/c it's easier on the knees) however others may find it difficult to descend when the snow and slush "ball up" in their crampons. Crampons "balling up" can sometimes lead to a serious fall (esp. when left unchecked)...

Wednesday, August 6, 2014

Mixed Impressions: a Look at the Trek Belleville WSD Mixte

Lately, readers have been asking about the Trek Belleville WSD mixte. It has been out for about a year and looks promising in pictures, but what is it like in person? I had noticed this bicycle earlier at one of my local bike shops - theWheelworks in Somerville, MA - and recently had a chance to try it.



The Trek Bellevillemixte is a "real" mixte - in the sense that it is built with twin lateral stays that extend from the head tube to the rear dropouts. The bicycle reflects the ideas of the French constructeurs (or, more likely, the contemporary builders who emulatethe original constructeurs) in that it is fully equipped with fenders, front and rear racks, and dynamo-powered lighting. However, unlike classic mixtes with their elegant lines and lugged steel construction, theTrek Belleville's frameis made of a strangely thick, welded cromoly tubing. The tubing is so chunky in fact, that I was certain the bike was aluminum until I was corrected. In industry photos the chunkiness is easily disguised with good lighting and careful choice of angles. But in person, the bicycle looks like what it is: a somewhat clumsy mass-produced bike fitted with some admittedly impressive extras. Trek also promotes the "eco-design" of this model, which you can read about here.



I think that one of the most successful aspects of theTrek Bellevilleis the colour scheme and graphics. We like to fool ourselves into thinking that this stuff does not influence us, but it does. The slate-blue and cream colour combination with subtle red accents is harmonious, beautiful, and nostalgic. It dominates the aesthetics of the bicycle, distracting the eye from its less appealing aspects.



Trek also used a vintage headbadge for the Belleville, which goes nicely with the classic theme.



The Trek Belleville uses a threadless stem and Porteur-style handlebars. Both the stem and the handlebars are painted body colour, which is nice. A Porteur-style front rack is attached to the fork.



Close-up of the stem, grips, shifter and the points where the lateral stays attach to the head tube. While I do not normally like threadless stems and integrated handlebars, I think here the look is appealing. However, the design makes it impossible to adjust stem height and the angle of the handlebars, which is problematic.



The front rack is quite elegant, as well as smoothly integrated with the body of the bike. The tires are Bontrager, cream with black sidewalls.



The rear rack is nice as well. I don't remember the weight rating, but it was considerable. One thing I noticed, is that the attachment points are set back from the rear dropouts - presumably because the chainstays are otherwise not long enough to accommodate a rack?



TheTrek Bellevilleis fitted with an internally geared hub (Shimano Nexus 3-speed), caliper brakes, a decent-looking crankset, touring-style pedals, and a body-coloured chainguard.



The front dynamo hub is a Shimano (I did not see the model name), and the lights used are Spanniga. The headlight is a Spanniga Micro, mounted on right stay of the front rack.



The tail light is a Spanniga Eclipse, attached to the rear rack. I have not tried the lights, as it was daytime, but I have heard good things about these models.



The saddle has a faux-handsewn leather look to it and feels like a typical padded vinyl saddle. I have read that it was designed to be disassembled and recycled after use, though I am not clear on the details.



TheTrek Belleville mixtecomes in two frame sizes - 43cm (17") and 50cm (20"). I am fairly certain that I tried the smaller frame, because I had to raise the saddle half a foot from its original position in order to ride the bike (note that the pictures here show the original position, not the raised position). However, while the seat tube was short, the rest of the bicycle seemed quite large. The step-over was high and bringing my leg over took some careful negotiating. And the reach from the saddle to the handlebars was characteristic of a larger frame.



I would estimate the weight of the Bellevillemixte around 35lbs. Very reasonable, considering the steel tubing and all the extras.



Preparing to test-ride the bike, I walked it off of the sidewalk curb - at which point it made loud clunking noises. Upon investigation, we discovered that the fenders were wobbly - and the cause seemed to be in the design of the attachment points, rather than in the assembly. This could be an issue when riding over bumps or potholes.



I test-rode the Trek Belleville mixte briefly, and I apologise for my disgraceful "salmoning" - it was only done for the photo. As reflected in the picture, the first thing I noted was the unusually generous width of the handlebars - I almost felt as if I were holding the edges of a hula hoop. Maybe this was the cause of the strange feel to the steering, because I found the front end to be "aloof" - almost as if it was receiving its steering instructions via a third party rather than from me directly. I wonder whether it would handle differently with a front load, but that is not something I was able to test. Otherwise, the ride felt okay - with the exception perhaps of too much pressure on my hands despite the upright handlebars.



Of all the other bicycles I have test ridden, theTrek Bellevillemixte is the most similar to the Specialized Globe HaulI tried last year. Both feature mixte-style construction and integrated racks, and are roughly in the same price range. Comparing the two, my impression is that the Globe Haul's construction is of somewhat better quality and I preferred the feel of the Globe's ride. In pictures and from a distance, the Trek Belleville comes across as a prettier and more classic-looking bicycle, but in person this is not so. As for comparing theTrek BellevilleWSD to traditional, classic mixtes - there is something clumsy about theTrek, as a result of which it does not resemble the real deal despite the twin-stay construction.



The racks on theTrek Bellevillemixte are impressive, and the fact that dynamo lighting comes standard on this bicycle is nothing short of amazing. The gorgeous paint job is also to be commended. But despite all the extras, the bicycle has an awkward and flimsy feel to it in person. The current retail of theTrek Bellevillemixte is around $650, and the Wheelworks in Somerville has it on sale at the moment for a lower price. Regardless of what I think of the Trek Belleville, one thing is for sure: A production bicycle with racks and dynamo lighting is a step forward for the industry that is in itself worth applauding.

Casablanca (5.9), Art's Route (5.9), and the Problem of Tunnel Vision

In mid-July, I got the chance to climb with Maryana again, for the first time since April. I had been busy, and my available days hadn't matched up well with hers. I'd been forced to turn her down so many times it was a wonder she'd still speak to me.



In one sense we were still climbers of similar capabilities; we were both wading into Gunks 5.10 climbs. But in another sense we were different. Maryana was climbing more, and actually getting somewhere on these climbs. Since I'd last seen her Maryana had led Simple Stuff, Nosedive, and Birdcage. By contrast, I'd successfully onsighted the one-move Splashtic and backed off of every other 5.10 I tried.



I was excited to see what she could do when we got together. Unfortunately our time was short, and we both struggled with our warm-ups.



We were both interested in leading Wegetables, so we hiked on down to the far end of the Trapps. Maryana decided to start with Casablanca (5.9), a climb with a short, reachy roof crux that she'd struggled with once before.



This was a climb I had sent onsight, although I had to try reaching the jug in several different ways before I finally just popped for it and easily grabbed it. Maryana was thinking she'd probably solve it immediately this time around, since she'd improved as a climber so much over the last year or so since her last attempt.



But alas, she struggled again. She wormed around the big roof flake in several different ways, trying to reach the jug, but she just couldn't get it. One of the good things about Casablanca is that you can do this over and over again and never hang on your gear, because it is easy to step down to the stance beneath the flake. Maryana did this several times, but eventually took a hang or two on her cam in the flexy flake (it holds!).



Finally she tried something different, throwing a heel and getting over the roof, delicately reaching up until she had the good hold. Afterwards she said she felt like she'd approached the climb with tunnel vision, thinking there had to be a way she could reach the hold directly, since she'd seen others do it. If she'd considered the heel hook more quickly she surely would have sent it.



I had a few inches on Maryana and I could just pop for the hold, so I didn't give much thought to what she said, although perhaps I should have paid more attention.



Safety alert: there are still slings on the tree just over the lip on Casablanca. Please do not rap from this tree. It is DEAD. Maryana could move the tree with her hands. It is not safe. There is a larger, living tree with slings about 20-30 feet higher. We used doubles, tied together, to rap from this tree. A 70 meter would likely make it, but a single 60 probably won't. You should either do the climb with doubles or do the second pitch, so you can use the Casa Emilio raps or walk off.



After we rapped down, I suggested we try the nearby Casanova (5.9-), a no-star climb that goes through the roof at a different place. I looked the roof over on rappel and it looked pretty cool. But the climb was in the full-on sun and Maryana wisely wanted to look for shade on this hot hot day.



So I suggested Art's Route (5.9), a climb that Dick Williams upgraded to two stars in his 2004 guidebook. And on Art's Route I had a little tunnel vision episode of my own.



I got through the first crux, an awkward mantel over a low roof. It wasn't pretty and I used a knee but I will take it.



Then at the second crux, which involves getting over a bigger ceiling and into a notch, I thought I had it figured out. From underneath the roof, moving to the right for a second I could see a hold I needed to reach, and I also clipped a very useful fixed nut. Then, from back under the roof, I made the big move to reach the key hold on my first try.



I now know this is the hardest move on the pitch, but after I grabbed the key hold I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get myself over the roof and into the notch. I tried it over and over again, and every time I couldn't make it. I climbed down several times and after a while I started hanging on that fixed nut.



Finally I realized that like Maryana, I was suffering from tunnel vision. In my case it was literally true. I was looking only into the notch for holds. I was failing to try to find a hold outside the notch that I could use to pull myself up and into it. Once I realized this I got it on the first try, the climb was over, and I cursed myself for my stupidity. This could easily have been an onsight. Maryana ran right up it as the second.



Art's Route is just a short, single pitch, but it is a very nice climb with two very different, and pretty difficult, cruxes. I highly recommend it and I will be back to send it!







(Photo: Cowering under Wegetables, trying vainly to wait outa storm.)



Probably I will return to do it on a day in which I try Casanova and Wegetables as well. Maryana and I never got to do Wegetables. It grew overcast as we worked on Art's Route and it started pouring right as we arrived underneath Wegetables. We crouched there against the wall staying relatively dry for forty-five minutes, hoping the storm would pass without getting the climb wet. But as it continued and the rain came down harder and harder, we realized that not only was Wegetables in jeopardy, but that our whole day might be shot. Eventually the rain dripped through the roofs all over the climb and we gave up, marching out in the continuing downpour. We were thwarted after just two pitches.



While we stood there I looked over the climb and gained a renewed hunger for coming back to lead it. I remembered the tough spots and I think I still have the beta in mind to send the thing. I need to have a good autumn with lots of splitter weather so I can come back and conquer these 5.9's and 5.10's that are piling up, waiting for me.