Wednesday, August 12, 2015

Crevasse fall - Climber Injured on Kautz Glacier

Kautz Glacier, Mount Rainier

On the afternoon of Tuesday, July 1, a climber fell approximately 15 feet into a crevasse at around 11,400 feet on the Kautz Glacier of Mount Rainier while descending the Mountain. The injured climber, Mitchell Bell, was rescued from the crevasse by his four teammates. Bell had injured ribs and visible lacerations to his head and face, but he was conscious and in stable condition. A doctor in the team quickly determined that due to his known and potential injuries, Bell could not continue the descent without assistance. Two members of the party climbed down in search of help, leaving the doctor, another teammate, and the patient at the scene. Back at Camp Hazard about 1,000 feet below, they found Alpine Ascents International (AAI). Several AAI guides responded to the request for assistance and contacted the National Park Service. A plan was put in place for two AAI guides to travel to the accident scene that evening to assess the injured climber’s condition and bring with them materials for an overnight stay on the Mountain. Based on their assessment, the Incident Commander, David Gottlieb called for air-lift/hoist extraction the following morning.

Within an hour of take-off on Wednesday morning at approximately 6:45 a.m., a US Army Reserve Chinook helicopter from Fort Lewis successfully extracted the injured climber from the Kautz Glacier. The patient was transported to Madigan Hospital for further medical evaluation. He was released later that day.


You can find more in the ST and PI.

~ Monica Magari

The need for more speed!

For those anxious readers interested in yet another story of a climber who has set yet another new 'unofficial' round trip summit speed record, please read on. For the rest of you who are tired of hearing of such drivel, we suggest you continue reading anyway and perhaps you still may find the story interesting. Besides, how can you ignore such an amazing feat? A person climbs to the summit of Mount Rainier in under 3 1/2 hours, and then descends to Paradise in just over an hour, resetting the speed record to 4 hours, 40 minutes and 59 seconds.

For comparison, it takes most folks 5 hours just to make it UP to Camp Muir, never mind to the summit and back to Paradise again in less time! Can you imagine the feeling of being lapped on a day hike by someone who has summitted? Then again, the person running past you on the Muir Snowfield is Guillermo (Willie) Benegas, an international guide, sponsored member of the North Face team, and highly accredited guide with the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). Benegas' climbing portfolio is impressive. Among other credentials, he has been a guide with Mountain Madness for 10 years and is the previous speed record holder on Aconcagua... Oh yeah, he's climbed Everest seven times and leads expeditions up numerous peaks over 26,000 ft.

For more information and an account of the ascent by Benegas, check out his interview in The News Tribune.

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Horseshoe Bend



My timing was a little bit off today. Apparently I just missed, by a matter of minutes, the opportunity to photograph a California Condor perched on the edge of the gorge at Horseshoe Bend. As I walked the trail to the edge of the gorge, I met another photographer who was heading back to his car. He noticed I was carrying a tripod and he stopped to tell me about the condor. He said there was a condor that had been sitting on a rock right on the edge of the gorge for close to half an hour. He pulled out his camera and showed me the images that he had just taken. They were unbelievable. Condors aren't exactly the prettiest birds, but they are big and very rare. This guy had some great shots of the bird, but did not have a website to share where the shots could be seen.


I may have missed the chance to photograph the unique bird, but I still had a great time at Horseshoe Bend. The bend is just a few miles south of Page, Arizona on the Colorado River. It is very easy to get to via a relatively short (although sandy) trail from the highway. During my visit there were about 50 other people there at the same time. The little parking lot at the trailhead was almost full, and included one tour bus, which apparently was filled with French people. Which brings me to one oddity of this trip... at times it seems as though I have heard more French than English being spoken as I visit some of these areas in the southwest. Today I felt like I was back in France as the people from the tour bus were spread out along the trail and I could hear French being spoken almost the whole time I was at Horseshoe Bend. I guess the southwest has become quite popular with European travelers!

A Horse is a Horse...or Not


Nathan has decided if you can't beat them, join them, and now goes out with me on the weekends to Sixteen Hands. Today I grabbed my real camera and grabbed some shots and we discussed how different the horses are from each other. I didn't know how distinct the "horsenalities" of horses were until I spent time here. They are all unique and all bring their own flavor to the sanctuary. As someone who had a lot of kids, I love this about the sanctuary.



For example, Willow is a deep thinker. She watches what is going on and seems pretty mellow, but she is as strong willed as they come when pressed by something she does not like.



Dakota is Mr Personality, winning over the visitors with his stunning looks and friendliness. I call him Mr Hollywood because I have to fight to get a shot of anyone else when he is around. He is ALL about the camera and will circle around with me to be sure I am taking pictures of only him.



Cherokee is our wise and gentle soul. He is pure, unadulterated love. If I am feeling down for any reason, five seconds with Cherokee is my favorite cure.



Dallas is one half of what I call the Dynamic Duo. He is energy, fun and joy all rolled up into one. Just watching him race down the track makes me smile. He is not really afraid of people so he can be quite pushy at times. He is smart as a whip and curious about everything!



Nova is a classy lady. She is above most of the foolishness that the guys engage in, but can hold her own against them if she needs to. I always imagine after she kicks the guys with all her might, scaring the living daylights out of them, that she walks away disgusted that she had to break a sweat in order to do it.



Most of the horses here have unique "issues", being rescued from abusive or neglectful situations. So they have baggage, just as most of us humans do. They are also able to still show us who they are, when they get to the point where they feel safe and trust us. Again, like most humans. It's a really interesting thing to be a part of that process and I am grateful each day I spend time there and learn more about it.



Living the life in FL!








Wednesday, August 5, 2015

Vegan Options for Classic Saddles

[image via somafab.com]

Though I am personally not against using animal products, some of my friends and readers are - which makes bicycle saddle purchases especially difficult for them. The problem is the basic construction of the saddles: There simply aren't any vegan options on the market today that are made in the same manner as suspended leather saddles, whereby a tough yet breathable material is stretched over metal railings like a hammock. So, what is the next best thing in terms of construction? Since saddle preferences are highly personal, I can only tell you what works for me, and hopefully it will be useful to some of you as well.If not suspended leather, then the next best thing for me is anergonomically-shapedsaddle that is a hard plastic shell, covered with a thin layer of synthetic material and very minimal padding in between. I prefer this construction by far over heavy padding or gel, which I find completely unridable. A number of experienced cyclists, such as Jon Forester, recommend these hard saddles over padded ones - the reasoning being, that the padding/gel bunches up under your sitbones and becomes uncomfortable over the course of a ride, whereas a hard plastic support with minimal padding holds up your weight equally.



[image viasomafab.com]

For roadbikes, there are several vegan options available as far as these types of saddles go. Notably, SOMA has recently released the Okami series (above, and the previous image), which comes in black, white, and embossed floral "synthetic leather," with copper-plated rivets. I've heard good things about this saddle, though I personally have not tried it. And it certainly looks classic.



[image via tokyofixedgear.com]

The Japanese manufacturer Kashimax has recently re-issued several colourful models in this tradition, many of which are vegan (just look for the models labeled "plastic" rather than "suede"). Though theKashimaxsaddles look scary-long and uncushioned, I've tried one on a friend's bike and really liked it.

[image via cinelli.it]

Another all-plastic option is the Cinelli Unicanitor re-issue - "the first saddle with a plastic shell in the history of cycling".

[image via cinelli.it]

And a limited edition Barry McGee version, covered with a lightly padded synthetic leather.

[image via chari &co]

Two Italian manufacturers have re-issued their original versions of these classic saddles as well. Selle Italia has released several versions of the classic "Turbo" model. I have ridden on several vintage Turbo saddles and loved them, so this would probably my vegan saddle of choice for a roadbike. There is something about the squarish back, the sloping sides and the down-turned nose that I find very comfortable.

[image via sellesanmarco.it]

The Concor release by Selle San Marco is a similar design to the Turbo, though I have not tried these personally. And SOMA's Ta-Bois yet another version.



[image via selleroyal.com]

Now, as far as saddles for upright bicycles go, I am not really sure what to tell you. I have not found a good vegan alternative to a sprung leather saddle, so these are more like "the lesser evil" suggestions. The Ondina model by Selle Royal (above image) is a mattress-style saddle. It is more evenly padded than other models I've tried, and resists bunching up. I have ridden on this saddle and thought it was fine for a short urban ride.



[image via lepper.nl]

I have also tried the mattress-styleLepper saddles (which come standard on many Dutch bikes), and those are similar to the Selle Royal, though with a more boxy profile. They are also usually quite heavy and the springs are enormous.



[image viaelectrabike.com]



Electra offers a number of vintage-inspired saddles that look the part, and aren't as horrendously over-padded as others I've seen - including these narrower styles that would work well on a mixte.

[image via electrabike.com]

Electra alsosells a lot of colourful models that could work well on a traditional bike. After all, a classic look does not necessarily need to imitate leather.

[image via nirve.com]

The cruiser manufacturer Nirve offers a number of traditional styles as well, including the riveted saddle pictured above and a number of floral-embossed models.

[image vianirve.com]

And another classic design by Nirve, with the "diamond" pattern popular on cruisers. If you are going for looks alone, there is a great deal to choose from between Nirve and Electra, but ride quality reports for these vary considerably.

If you have experience with any of the saddles listed here, please share your thoughts. And if you have other vegan alternatives to recommend for those who do not wish to buy leather saddles, your suggestions would be much appreciated.

Monday, August 3, 2015

Recent activity




Recent searching led us to this interesting looking line.

Fun days ahead! The crack moving left after the ice appears to be

solid and should take gear all the way to the top. Is it possible

to have too many projects?
We've been climbing a good bit. Several days with Ray Burnsworth A.K.A. Wildfilm Productions. He's been shooting some incredible footage on several recent outings. Should be seeing some really cool stuff from him soon. He's been really psyched and working hard to highlight the climbing offered here in SWPA. I've been continuing work on several projects while Laura has been getting on the sharp end more. We've discovered a great way to help one another accomplish personal climbing goals. We've been alternating "personal days" which is a day that is only focused on one person's training or goals. That way the belay slave gets a rest day for their "personal day" to follow. Some days are hard and some are easy, but most of all we've been pushing each other to climb stronger and smiling while being miserable and sore.



So far it's been a good season despite the couple warm ups that caused some serious damage. Things are finally getting back to normal at the smaller crags. Water is seeping and the flows are forming nicely and getting fat. The Big Climbs are in a state of funk that is challenging to say the least. Most of them are very aerated and spooky. Currently they're formed like early season climbs, which is expectedly hollow and difficult to protect. Amplify that with exposure to near 50 degree temperatures (two near melt outs), its made things WILD to say the least. This weekend when it rapidly dropped to zero from above freezing things became almost no fun at all. Notice that I said almost. Looking back it was fun. Its not everyday that we get the chance to climb such scary stuff. Might as well enjoy it while we can! After all... this is climbing in SWPA, make the most you can out of nothing.



Saturday 1/22/Some nice folks we met from VA last weekend decided to return to PA to sample some more ice. We met them at Lower Meadow Run to show them around. We led Hemlock with an icicle start. It's barely touching down, but with some gentle climbing it supported us up to the better ice and eventually solid rock gear. Fred from Exkursion was there with some friends that were new to ice. They were climbing away and having a great day. The weather was sunny and made the chilly day feel very comfortable. By afternoon the ice was soft and everyone was spent. We joined the VA folks for dinner at NY Pizza and Pasta after climbing. They spent the night at The Melody Motor Lodge in Connellsville. Many visiting climbers seem to enjoy staying here. Rooms are warm and reasonable, breakfast is right next door at Ed's and climbing is only minutes away. What more could you ask for?

Sunday 1/23/The temperature hovered just above zero which quickly chilled our hands and feet. With poor conditions and cold temps, Laura and I jumped on the Infinite WI5. I climbed about 1/2 of it and lowered off to rewarm my frozen hands. I went up a second time reaching a reasonable high point where I could safely lower off. Conditions were not favorable for pushing too hard. Our friends from VA were in town again. They made an attempt of Called on account of Security WI4. They made it to the center pillar and made the decision to call it quits and top rope the lower portion. Maybe next weekend things will be looking up. Unfortunately the left wall isn't showing much hope. The new additions Mad Rocket WI5+and Double A WI6 are far from being "IN". On a positive note The Beast WI5+ is making an appearance for the 2nd year in a row. Currently it's about the most promising looking line on the left wall.






On approach, the first view





Galen belaying Sean on Called on Account of Security WI4


Tuesday 1/25/

Today it was Laura's day and she chose to go to Lower Meadow Run. She's recently made a clean go of Season Finale M6. She's been after it a for quite a while now. After a few tries this season she did it with no falls. She wanted to try it again and I wanted to try out the new pocket camera I purchased for shooting seconds coming up. I'd like to get away from lugging a body/lens combo up routes. I've not been very pleased with any pocket camera I've tried so far. This time I'm trying the NIKON S8100. The size is nice. Its small and light, reasonably fast and cheap (almost disposable). Seemed worth a try. Here are a few of the images we shot today. Not bad for a point and shoot.






Supporting the park we frequent



checking Laura's screw placements



Pulling over the crux bulge



Look out guys, Laura shows how its done




For any taker who want the novelty of climbing

Cucumber Falls WI2+. This is as "IN" as I've seen

it in years. Go get it while its still up! P.S. Don't expect gear